Croatia, formerly Yugoslavia has had a war torn history dating back to the early centuries and has been invaded by many nations. Through this there are many different types of architecture in the cities.

It was a country that I have always wanted to visit but just never seemed to find the time. Zagreb, is the capital and it is amazing to see how history has carved out its imprint on the old city. We found it remarkably clean and they still have an electric tram system as public transport.

Each Sunday the city comes alive around 10.00am and there’s a café’s around every corner offering good coffee and breakfast. Plus there are a number of markets too, where you can purchase anything from fresh home baked bread, salami of all types as well as traditional clothing and souvenirs.

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First sight of the Kupa

It was unfortunate that we never got to the coastal areas on this trip, but time did not allow. We were more focused on the fishing situated high in the mountainous region around Brod na Kupa on the Slovenian border.

If you are an historian and would like to know more about these people and their country take a look at this website: - http://lcweb2.loc.gov/frd/cs/yutoc.html

August 2007.

After many months of email conversations with Mislav Jukic, my wife Barbara and I finally met him at the Zagreb International Airport. One couldn't miss this man in the crowded hall. He had a lovely open face with a huge smile that would brighten any cold cloudy day.  

From the time we met it was as if we had known each other for years and there was plenty of chatting done during our 1½ hour journey to Belo, the village where Mislav’s family chalet is situated high in the mountains of Croatia. Mislav and his son are huge Springbok fans, only to be let down by his daughter who supports the All Blacks. I guess you would gather from this that there is war in the home when these two sides meet. 

The journey seemed short due to the chatting and the spectacular scenery as you head into the mountains where the road narrows and passes through small villages. Once the road starts it’s decent on the other side of the mountain the forest becomes denser and much of the wild life of Croatia is seen as there is little disturbance from traffic. At the bottom of the mountain road we caught our first sight of the Kupa River, crystal clear with some deep runs and pools. It was also running at an ideal rate for wading. 

The Kupica

Once we reached our final destination we were greeted and welcomed by Anamarija, Mislav’s wife with even a bigger smile than the one we received from Mislav at the airport.

After getting our luggage upstairs and unpacking gifts we brought for the family from SA, we headed for tea and a few Croatian biscuits. One had to be there to see the faces of Mislav and Anamarija light up when we handed over their gifts. A recipe book and a hand painted tablecloth for Anamarija and there are no prizes for what Mislav got; a Springbok rugby jersey and videos of passed games, besides the six SA memorabilia golf shirts that he had ordered. After all this our luggage was much lighter, but not for long as we too were given gifts to bring home with us.   

By the way, Mislav wore these shirts the whole time we were in Croatia. Between you and me I think he probably slept in them as well. 

The next six days were brilliant! What a pleasure it was to fish in crystal clear rivers and streams, so clean that one is able to drink from them without the worry of getting gipo guts. 

A typical day’s fishing starts with an 800 meter walk from the chalet. (That’s if one is that way inclined after a hard 10 hours of fishing from the day before and good food, beer and wine after fishing until 8.30 in the evening.) Then it’s back for breakfast at around 9am, heading out again at 10am for another section of the river, either the higher reaches of the Kupa, the Curak, the Kupica or the Gacka Rivers.

Sight fishing is the order of the day. On many occasions one would be standing within a meter of fish tailing in the water. The only time you do a little blind casting is into very deep pools or when the light angle on the water causes a whiteout. However, if you can get some height standing on the bank and so cutting back on the reflection, you are able to see the fish at the bottom of the runs and shallower pools.  

This so reminded Barbara and I of the New Zealand rivers. I’m not going into a day by day account of the trip, but the pictures tell the story! 

On our last day it rained and we were literally fished out, so we took advantage of the bad weather by visiting the main town in the area Delnice. This town dates back many years in history and nothing much has changed through the years. We strolled around the town which is an architect’s delight, popping into the odd shop to have a look at some real antique furnishings that have survived the troubled times Croatia has been through.

After having a pleasant last evening eating traditional Croatian food and drinking excellent wine while chatting about our trip, we left Belo early the next morning for Zagreb as Mislav had offered to give us a personalised tour of the old city as well as a history lesson on what took place where and what the outcome was. After a lunch at the airport it was time to say our goodbyes, but not forever. Barbara and I will certainly return to Croatia to visit our friends. Yes, we will also spend plenty of time on the rivers and streams as well.

For those who might consider a trip: - The food is great and the chalet comfortable and ideal for small groups. The chalet accommodates five people. 

One or two people on a fly in fishing trip: - It is best the contact is made directly with Mislav to make the necessary arrangements This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.">This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or see http://www.kupa-flyfishing.com/eng/o_nama.shtml

Fly in - self drive holiday: - A great holiday can be had on this basis. For those folk who have time on their hands, fly into Milan and fish the Dolomite Mountains. A friend fished these rivers and had a great time. Then take in other sites of Italy as you travel to the Croatian border. Venice is only two hours from Belo. Make sure you arrange or take your own GPS along with the maps for the whole of Europe.

Time of the year to go: - Mid May through to mid September. Even the locals wear warm clothes in the early morning and again in the evenings during the height of the summer months. Remember to take a Polo fleece jacket with you.